As headlines go, that’s not bad! Perhaps I have a future in the British tabloid press?
So this is a tale in three parts.
First, Brindisi. As I said last year, Brindisi is an odd place. It’s in many ways a typical southern Italian town. It’s dusty; it has a mix of architectural styles; a lot of the buildings have seen better days and, while it has some historical significance, it has few artifacts that reflect its past.
But it grows on you.
While it is sleepy and hot in the afternoons by eight or nine o’clock in the evenings before dinner everyone promenades along the waterfront. Whole families together ;frequently three generations just strolling and chatting and generally enjoying life.
Today two little girls who are both less than two and dressed in their best are out with their mothers. The little girls are enjoying each other and life in the biggest possible way. They squeal, they laugh, they hug each other all the way along the waterfront. They are already lifelong friends and look like they are destined to be that way forever. They have a destination. Throughout the summer Brindisi sets up mini-carousels for the toddlers at various place throughout the town. Our little girls are heading for one of these which has little chairs hanging from the top so that when it rotates centrifugal force makes them fly outwards. The little girls get into chairs one behind the other and it starts. They look calm and satisfied. The one in front reaches out a little toddler arm and holds onto her friend’s chair - support, comfort and friendship in one tiny gesture. “Don’t worry, girl, we’re in this together and I’ve got you!”
It is the official start of summer this weekend - marked by the June 2 Republic day holiday (celebrating Italy voting to become a republic just after the Second World War in 1946). So it’s a long holiday weekend for everyone. People typically head to the beach but it’s a little cool and overcast so it’s not exactly the best weather. British people will be glad to hear that it’s not just their holidays that are dampened by poor weather!
But the Italians are resourceful and have planned events for the whole weekend. Most notable is the Vinibus Terrae wine festival. Puglia is a major wine producing region (OK which region in Italy isn’t!). While they are not well-known in places like the US, the Primitivo wines it produces are deep red and full-bodied and fairly inexpensive. Well worth seeking out! So, all along the waterfront, there are booths from the local vineyards where you can sample their products (five samples for 10 Euros). We have fun tasting but realize that we should moderate a bit because we have dinner to follow!
Which leads me to the second part of the tale.
Eating out in Brindisi is a mixed bag. Many restaurants are average at best and most of them on or near the waterfront fall into this category. However there are exceptions. We ate in La Nassa with some new friends that we met in the boatyard. These two couples, Gary and Louise and Mel and Jackie have been sailing more or less together for the past 17 years. Two beautiful big boats - an Oyster 61 and a Trintella 51. It’s a straightforward, genuine pizza place that has a great atmosphere. Also on the waterfront is a contemporary wine bar, Numero Primo, which has a superb local wine list and serves some great creative local light meals and appetizers. But our favorite is La Sciabica.
In a new and exciting variant of "Where's Waldo?", can you spot the evidence of Lori in the above picture? There might be a prize....
This is an osteria which means it’s not in any way fancy a a restaurant and they typically offer simple but good food. La Sciabica is an exception. There is a focus on traditional local dishes like potato and rice pie or their assortment of local antipasti - a delicious mixture of seafood, meats vegetables and cheeses. They bake their own bread and we are fortunate to get some straight from the oven. The ambience in an old stone harbor building completes the experience.
Oh, yes, the floozy.
She hangs on the wall in the osteria. The artist has done a great job showing her in all her detailed colorful finery but the ogling men are grey and roughly drawn - no message here!