The harbor is still a bit lumpy even a day after the storm. But the winds are abating significantly and we can get off the boat. We are surrounded by Yacht Week kids waiting to start the next round of this event. It is also “Ultra 2” - a five-day music festival at multiple venues in Split. So the town is packed with bleary-eyed twenty-somethings recovering from the previous night’s festivities.
On the other hand, we have one very elegant neighbor. She is Lionheart - a J-class yacht whose origins reach back to the America’s Cup races of the 1920’s and 30’s. She is built for racing and there are, I believe, only 10 boatslike her in the world. This is understandable because she is over 140ft long and cost $15m to build. Lori uses this knowledge to advantage and chats to their crew who are suitably flattered. Sadly she did not manage to get on board.
We spend a day getting the boat ship-shape for Jim and Tracey who will arrive late on Sunday night. They are coming from Dubrovnik by hydrofoil. We eat dinner in the old town of Split and wait for the arrival of the ferry. The town is busy but we start to appreciate some of its charms. It will be good to see it again later in the season when it is not bursting at the seams.
Jima and Tracey arrive a little late. They have been moving through the remnants of the storm and the latter part of the ride has been pretty bumpy especially when you are traveling at 30 knots. However they are safe and sound and we transfer them by water taxi to the marina and True Colors. Some wine, cheese and fruit in the main cabin but it’s really time for bed.
The next morning is fine and sunny. Jim goes for a run and Lori goes looking for her special pastries. We ate these last year; they are a nautilus-like spiral of flaky pastry with various fillings of which Lori really like the meat. She has not had much luck getting them this year even though we know the stores that sell them. I struck out trying to get them for her yesterday and she strikes out again today. She is looking frustrated and disappointed.
But, however important this is, we can’t dwell on it. It’s time to be on the move. However the Yacht Week kids decide to leave too and we have to wait as a steady stream of boats passes across our bow. We gradually cast off all our lines and ease out into the harbor. We are going to head for Brac today. We believe that our destination will keep us clear of the Yacht Week flotilla and enable us to have a quiet night.
The plan is sound but the flotilla is heading in our direction (but not to the same destination). They also intersect with about six large party boats at the narrowest part of a channel at just the same time as we are making our way through it. And, by the way, the wind is blowing 17 knots.
We are surrounded by about 30 boats all more or less going in the same direction but cutting across each other (and us) with varying amounts of skill and speed. Fifteen minutes of having to have eyes in the back or my head! But Lori, Jim and Tracey are also on the lookout and we eventually shake them off and find our little bay with its mooring buoys and snag one for the night.
The restaurant that runs the mooring is a little haphazard. They have a menu but very few dishes are available. The highlight was Lori and Tracey’s branzino (European sea bass). Although the Med has been over-fished hugely, some wild fish of the highest quality can still be found- at a price.
We spend a peaceful night under the stars.