If you're getting the backwards nature of this section of our trip, you will be correct in guessing that we had no wind overnight.
Another undercurrent to the last few days is that we have needed to check into Greece. When you move from country to county with a boat you have to get the necessary paperwork to bring the boat into the country. In Greece, this involves Customs and the Port Police. Port Police are, as their name implies, pretty much in every port but Customs are only in what's called a Port of Entry. One of the great things about the EU is that our personal passports are not really a major part of this process other than to confirm our identity. It is the boat everyone is interested in.
So when we checked into Greece it was in the afternoon of the day before Easter in Pylos. The Port Police were open, but Customs had already closed for the holiday. One of the nicest things about Greece is how helpful everyone tries to be. The Port Police didn’t want to ask us to stay five days in Pylos until the Customs opened after Easter. So they said go straight to Porto Heli and clear into the country there. Everyone was a little uneasy about this, but the alternative was not very attractive. We all had visions of gunboats appearing in the night and demanding our papers. The only gunboat we saw was parked next to us in Pylos! It was Finnish on some sort of joint EU mission with their Greek counterparts. When they called out “Sir!” we all looked at each other….. But all they wanted me to do was come on board and take their group picture.
So here we are in Porto Heli five days later and we go to the Port Police. They look a little confused, concerned or something at our story but point out that there is no Customs Office in Porto Heli (despite what it says in the Pilot Book). We have to go to Nafplion 25 miles away “as fast as possible”.
So we up-anchor and motor up the gulf to Nafplion which is the former capital of Greece, A very nondescript port conceals a charming old town of narrow streets and some very nice boutique stores.
The Port Police look harassed and say that we can’t stay there because there is a boat show the coming weekend and all the yachts have to be off the quay to make room. We explain we need to check into the country. This seems to trump their concerns and they say we can stay till the next morning.
Off Lori and I go to find the Customs office. while Ruairi works on the bow thruster. It’s an involved process which includes one of their guys coming back to check out our boat on the quay. It turns out that he is just back in Greece after 3 years in Worcester, Mass. His perspective on the Greek situation and the US one is quite illuminating.
We provide all the documentation needed but their computer system is down and we will have to come back the next day. Back to the Port Police who say that that we are fine.
The next day (after a windy night) Ruari leaves us to go back to Vliho. We are now down to just the two of us. Fifteen minutes after he departs, the Port Police say we have to move now!!! We politely protest but to no avail. We easily slip away from the quay and into the harbor basin.
The suggested mooring was to go alongside on another part of the quay. The choice between large rubber tire bumpers and iron staples in the wall is not a good one for us. Lori is unhappy when we are alongside the tires - they are too low below the quay for her to get on and off safely. The staples are dangerous because if the wind blows hard they can damage the boat. Fortunately it is calm. We come nicely alongside and tie up. I leave Lori on the boat and go as fast as I can to the Customs office. All is in order and 30 minutes later we have our paperwork.
Back at he boat we slip away from the quay and head back to Porto Heli for provisioning and laundry.
This time we get more of a chance to appreciate Porto Heli. It is a beautiful harbor from a shelter perspective. The town quay has some spaces but fewer than we would have expected at this time in the season. Some boats are still in their winter “plumage” and not yet ready for the season. Stern-to again with help again from some gypsy kids who want a few Euros for helping tie the boat. Not a problem. However when another kid comes by later and says he wants money because this is “his waterfront”, this is a problem. We say “No” and he comes back a couple of time more but we ignore him but feel uneasy about the whole thing. This is the first time we have ever seen anything like this in Greece. Porto Heli should take care that this does not get out of hand.
More thoughts from Lori
We are in our third week sailing. Stern-to moored in Porto Heli ... N 37. 19.5'. E 23. 8.6'. We sailed over 1,000 nautical miles in the first two weeks, and are now going to slow down. We are taking two days to freshen up our boat, our beings, and our clothes. Oh yeah!
One of the things that I notice about the sailing life, is it's ability to help you really appreciate the little things. Like, the act of getting a shower, with fresh, warm water (not too much of it though); oh... and we're not heeling! Yahoo!
I honor people like Thich Nhat Hanh, the Vietnamese Bhuddist monk who I've listened to, read abut, in awe of his ability to be IN the moment... Be it taking a walk - noticing each step - the movement in your leg, foot. The feel of your heel making contact with the ground, and the almost imperceptible sound as it makes contact with the earth. Or enjoying the task of washing the dishes. Doing a on well. All jobs, any job.
I've also been focusing on remaining calm in stressful situations. I imagine that sailing has a similarity to fire fighting... Big lulls in activity, and then the fire alarm sounds. Whatever you were doing must stop, and all focus needs to be directed to the situation at hand. As our sailing coach, Ruairi puts it - "Stress only creates stress. Do NOT create it" Don't give it any mental or emotional room. I have begun the journey, and will really work to stay on the path... Stay with me!