So this is the third day traveling eastwards across the bottom of the Peloponnese and its the third day that the wind has been blowing hard from the east (easterlies). For anyone whop doesn’t know sailboats don't sail well directly into the wind and again for anyone who doesn't know 40 knots of wind is a gale. Sailboats don't enjoy gales hitting then on the nose.
But despite the repetitive weather scenario, today was actually a little better. Although the winds were at least as strong as on the previous days (a steady 30 -35 knots gusting to over 40), it turned out that they were actually coming down from the mountains. So as we sailed we found that the wind and waves tended always to be on our port side and not so much on our nose. Colin helmed all the way round Cape Malea (it was, after all, his turn to get wet).
Cape Malea is notorious for unpredictable really bad weather and while it gave us a good workout it didn't feel as malicious as it is reputed to be. The area is really remote and mountainous with the mountains descending sharply into the sea. On the cape there is a monastery, but how the monks get their food is hard to reckon and however it is done it is definitely doing it the hard way.
Round the cape, the wind died pretty quickly to an amiable 7 - 8 knots and we could all start to peel off the layers of foul weather gear we had added as we progressed round the cape. We motored easily northwards to Monemvasia and arrived there just in time for lunch (Greek time).
Easter for Greeks is really like Christmas elsewhere with everybody going to grandma’s house for the big eating celebration of the year. As we walked to the old town, we passed many families sitting on their patios and balconies grilling and roasting meat (lamb) and enjoying wine and each other’s company. As far as we can tell, Greeks have the family thing down to an art form. It all looks so easy, spontaneous and genuinely heartfelt that you cant help but feel happy too.
We toured Monemvasia after lunch, but this is such a special place that I’ll post a complete blog entry on it next.